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The one truly active member of the Aeolian Islands archipelago, one might think that life on Stromboli would be a little scary. This little island in the Tyrrhenian is entirely comprised of a volcano which surges to 924 metres above sea level at its peak and which, for the last two millennia or more, has been in continual eruption. And yet a permanent population of several hundred live here, centred on the eastern hamlets of San Vincenzo, Piscita and San Bartolo (often collectively known as Stromboli town and terribly chic since Roberto Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman immortalised the place in the 1949 movie Sromboli. A vacation on Stromboli (vacanza Stromboli) is like holidaying nowhere else.

Those eruptions then. A contast flow of lava slies from the three craters into the sea on the north-west side. Occasionally, as in January 2003, more powerful eruptions hurl rocks into the sea causing miniature tidal waves. This was part of a pattern of eruptions that began the year before, seeing the island closed to visitors for several months. At night, Sromboli is spectacular, as ash and blocks of stone are hurled hundreds of feet into the sky, fire and volcanic ‘bombs’ raining down. It’s generally more bark than bite, and the last really serious eruption was in 1930, when the bombs destroyed houses and killed several residents.

Ferries run into Scari (Stromboli town) from Naples on the mainland and the neighbouring island of Lipari. The main beaches are at Ficogrande and Piscita (a fine ashy beach). Check out the church of San Vincezno, with superb views of the offshore isle of Strombolicchio, then on to Piscita’s church of San Piscita. Bear in mind that Stomboli is little, cycles or motor scooters will quickly get you to all the sights. The northern village of Ginostra is a lovely spot, with white terraced houses, and there are boat trips around the island. But no trip to Stromboli would be complete without an ascent to the volcano, ideally at night. It’s not always available - with Stromboli bursting two new craters open in early 2007, there is a constant reminder that Stromboli may drowse but never sleeps. You can camp at the summit but always go with a guide, and on no account attempt a night descent on your own.

You’ll find some very nice accommodation in Stromboli here.