Turenum View is a holiday apartment for rent in Trani, Puglia, Italy. Recently renovated and refurbished, it has all the modern comforts and superb views of the port and the cathedral.
Back up in the apartment the cozze have been emptied into a bowl of water to clean for the evening meal and everyone is ready to go out and explore. As you walk out the door and turn right, following the white marble cobbled road you come across the Chiesa Ognissanti (previously the Church of the Templars). A gem hidden away from the world, this church dates back to 1091 when the Templar Knights departed from Trani on the Crusades – this was where they received their blessing before the voyage. Past the church, you turn right down a small lane which leads you to the port.
The fishermen are washing their boats down and chatting amongst themselves, who knows what they are babbling about: the weather? the morning’s catch? Turning left along the port you run smack bang into the Cattedrale di Trani. Famous throughout all of Italy for its beauty and spectacular position this cathedral was built in honour of San Nicola over a thousand years ago. It has two levels underground, perfect for exploring and imagining, with tombs and private little chapels. The sense of mystery still crackles in the damp air.
Continuing on from the Cattedrale you reach the perfectly intact Svevo Castle. Built in honour of Federico II, who reigned over the south of Italy in the 12th century, it is open for inspection, and open to the imagination. Simply built in the typical white stone of Trani, you can easily envisage what it must have been like to arrive on a ship straight up through one of the secret entrances to the castle.
By now it’s lunchtime. Each of you has noticed a cute little restaurant or café as you have been wandering around. Will it be pizza? A simple sandwich? Pasta? No, we’re having pasta for dinner! How about we buy some fresh bread, some crunchy taralli, some local prosciutto, some fresh mozzarella (hand made that very morning) and we take it up to the terrace. Olive oil and red wine (locally made) are provided by Turenum View. Simple and delicious! There’s a bakery just near the house and a mozzarella shop (caseificio) just through there, near the castle.
After lunch, one of you opts for sun bathing and reading on the terrace, another opts for a walk along the beachfront after a quick nap. The others decide to explore the hidden back streets of the Jewish quarter, the synagogue and to end the day a wander along the main Corso Vittorio Emanuele where the locals are already meandering along, check out the shops and the newcomers.
The sun is setting and it's time for dinner. The water is boiling with the bavette pasta, the tomatoes are simmering, the mussels are waiting to be emptied into the frypan with the tomatoes. Smells delicious. The sky is orange and pink. As you sip a glass of cold white wine and watch the movement on the port below. Look at that young couple; look at the fishermen’s dog resting by the boat; look at that car. 'What model is it? An Alfa Romeo?'
As darkness descends the clear sky fills with stars. Maybe have a nightcap at the Portulaka bar. Tomorrow is another day: of course, once you’ve tasted the Cornetto crema amarena, you’ll be wanting one every morning. But apart from that, each day, something different to discover ... or simply discover the pleasure of relaxing in the apartment.
Extra ... tourist guides are available on request, as are boat tours and romantic suppers served on the veranda overlooking the port. For more on this holiday apartment for rent in Trani, Puglia, Italy, just click below.