ITALIAN POLICE, THE LAW, CRIME AND PERSONAL SAFETY IN ITALY
Let’s get some preconceptions out of the way first. Organised
crime, wolf-whistling and bottom pinching may be an element
of life in Italy, but it is a long way from the whole picture.
This is a relatively crime-free country; the violent crime
that afflicts many US cities, and the anti-social public drunkenness
that can be a problem in Britain are both refreshingly absent.
Italy suffers from racial stereotyping as much as most, and
the Goodfellas image perpetuated by Hollywood bears a large
part of the blame. There is organised crime in Italy, from
the Sicilian Mafia and Neapolitan Camorra, to high-level corporate
crime. What violent crime there is tends to be domestic, rather
than directed at tourists. Italy is a safe place to be, though
(in the big cities especially) pick-pocketing has been developed
into a fine art of which the Artful Dodger would be proud.
Theft from parked cars and purse snatching can also be a problem
in large cities. Predictably, most thefts occur at crowded tourist
sites (it’s so easy to dive into somebody’s pocket
when their gaze is fixed upwards on the Duomo or the Leaning Tower)
on public transport, or at the major rail stations, (where people
are invariably confused and distracted).
Pickpockets - think you’re cleverer than the scippatori
(snatchers)? We doubt it. Snatchers tend to work in groups or pairs.
You may
find
a begging child tugging at your sleeve for attention … only
to later find his confederate has lifted your pocket book. Or one
operator throws some water over your coat, another helpful soul
assists you in cleaning up, while number three robs you. Thieves
on the bus might slit the bottom of your bag or purse with a razor
blade, filch out the contents, and depart the bus, leaving you
blissfully unaware. You almost admire their artistry (though if
you’re in downtown Naples with no wallet you probably won’t
feel that way).
The good news is, it’s largely avoidable. The first tip
is, don’t make it easy. Don't carry your wallet or purse
in your hand; you may think you’ve a tight grip on it, but
you’re just making it more visible and easy to snatch. Take
that bag off your shoulder and pin it tightly under your arm with
the opening facing inward. Wear money belts or bum bags with the
goods at the front, where you can see and feel them (but ideally
with a layer of clothing over the top). And don’t have an
expensive camera swinging from your neck. Remember to split up
your finances, keeping cards, cash and cheques in separate places,
so if the worst happens you only lose one source of money. While
you’re at it, make a list of your traveller’s cheque
numbers, as well as the emergency numbers for your bank, credit
card issuer and so forth. Also take photocopies of your passports
and financial documents, and carry these separately. Only carry
the cash you need for that day. Extra money, credit cards, travel
documents and passports are far better left in the hotel safe.
Thefts of small items from parked cars can be a problem, and though
you won’t be car-jacked, robberies do occur from cars stopped
in traffic or at lights. So hit the central locking, keep the windows
up, and stow your valuables out of sight. There are some quite
elaborate scams. Being flagged over by a helpful motorist who tells
you you’re running a flat is one. As you talk, his pal is
slitting your rear nearside tyre. You get out to inspect, accompanies
by your new friend, while the second robber filches your belongings
from the car. But have your wits about you, maintain a healthy
scepticism and you’ll be okay. And act confident – con
artists tend to pick on the baffled and unsure.
Respect the culture -
in any case, most of this is unlikely to happen to you, and you
should be sure that you yourself don’t fall foul of the law
or of custom. Drugs are a no-no with anyone above a certain age.
Italy has problems with heroin, and there’s a certain degree
of hysteria about the problem. In this atmosphere the distinction
between soft and hard drugs tends to get lost. It’s never
a good idea to get caught in possession of drugs in a foreign country – and
a lengthy sojourn in a southern police cell while your stash is
analysed could seriously spoil your holiday. Remember too that
this is a conservative country, informed by the mores of the Catholic
Church. But just like in any country the ‘rules’ often
seem confusingly skewed. Although you find nudity screaming at
you from the covers of magazines, public bathing nude is not on;
topless bathing is allowed but the attitude will change depending
on whether you’re on a chi-chi beach populated by northern
Europeans (Germans and Scandinavians have a far more relaxed approach
to nudity) or on a little local beach in southern Italy. Switch
on your commonsense detector and see what other people are doing.
And while we’re on the subject of the
Catholic Church, remember that those fabulously picturesque mediaeval
churches
and cathedrals
are not simply tourist tick-offs, they’re places of worship.
Wandering into St Peter’s dressed for the beach will not
be well looked on (in fact they won’t let you in). Flash
photography is not acceptable while people are attending Mass;
if you want a picture of the interior of the Basilica di San Marco,
why not buy a postcard?
Women travelling - Italy has a bad reputation for sexual harassment
of women, and it’s largely unfair. Women, especially travelling alone,
may be the recipients of wolf-whistling or hissing; the best way
to respond is to ignore it and stride confidently on. What British
and American visitors might deem ‘unreconstructed’ behaviour
may be viewed by an Italian as a little harmless flirting. Don’t
get angry and don’t be tempted to respond with abuse. One
thing a women is unlikely to be subjected to is the drunken and
leery male behaviour found around the centres of British cities
at closing time; you’re far more likely to have to contend
with persistent chatting up. Prostitution is far more ‘out’ than
in many British and American towns, so walking alone in certain
areas, or waiting at a bus stop even, can attract kerb crawlers.
If you are in doubt, ask your host or hotelier if there are areas
you should avoid. And while you are unlikely to be mugged in a
public park, there are flashers. Parks can also be popular pick-up
places, so beware.
Like every country, Italy has had to respond to the threat of
terrorism. Heightened tension in the Middle East has led to increased
security around the Jewish quarter in Venice, with extra police
have been drafted in to guard the area. Security in the Jewish
quarter in Rome has also been increased.
Should you need to contact the police, be aware that there are
a number of different forces. The rough equivalent to British bobbies
are the Carabinieri, who wear military-type uniforms with white
shoulder belts, and handle general crime, drug offences and public
order. Generally southern Italians, Carabinieri are then posted
away from home, to lessen the risk of local corruption and family
influence. Next come the Polizia Statale,
to whom assaults or thefts should be reported. Traffic is handled
by the Vigili Urbani, who direct traffic and issue parking fines
in the cities, with the Polizia Stradale taking care of the motorways.
The Guardia di Finanza deal with smuggling and tax evasion. Confused?
Your first call should be at the local Questura, the police station,
which also deals with lost passports and other red tape. Emergency
phone numbers are as follows. 112 for the Carabinieri, 113 for
general emergencies, 115 for the fire service, 116 for roadside
assistance and 118 for an ambulance.
Be prepared, guard your possessions, look confident and think… You’re
in a beautiful, friendly and largely very safe country, so take
care and enjoy yourself.
